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Old 04-09-2010, 01:14 PM   #1
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DIY Camber/Castor Bolts

Ive got a E320 CDI which Ive changed a number of suspension components on recently:
Brabus 35mm drop springs (running 4nib pads on the front and 3nib on the rear)
New lower arms
New ball joints
Bilstein B6 shocks.

The car is fitted with AMG II 18" wheels:
8" front running 245 40 18
9" rear running 265 35 18

Whilst changing the lower arms I was advised to change the bolts to the Mercedes repair ones. I was advised to put the bolts in the following setup:



For those that have installed these bolts, you will know the bolts can go in one of 3 places. So by "in" I mean adjusted to the center of the car, and "out" out towards the wheel arch.

Since doing this, the steering was so far off that the ESP light was being triggered by the steering angle sensor. I then took it for alignment and the steering is now normal, although the car still pulls slightly to the left.

I also noticed the left wheel looks like its sitting more forward than the right wheel - in terms of gap between the wheel and front bumper, as a result the left wheel touches the arch over bumps.

Have I fitted the bolts incorrectly?
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:20 PM   #2
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that is a 210 chassis right ?

you have the front and rear wrong ?

the bolt near the spring seat is the camber and the rear bolt is the castor.
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Old 07-09-2010, 09:06 PM   #3
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You may not have needed to fit bolts at all.

The wheel arch rub is not right Simal.
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Old 03-11-2010, 12:33 AM   #4
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I realise this thread is getting old but the wheel arch rub is due to the 245/40ZR18 fronts - largest possible imo on 210 is 235/40ZR18 (265/35ZR18 rear is correct). I had a clot fit 245/40 and they rubbed on dips and tight corners, whereas present MO 235/40ZR18 fit like a glove, albeit a tight pair. MB spec for 8J fronts on 210 is 235/40.

Please explain how the bolts can go in 1 of 3 places.
I have not done this job. How much adjustment is available from the repair bolts?

Last edited by jefrs; 03-11-2010 at 12:36 AM.
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Old 03-11-2010, 01:40 AM   #5
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The repair bolts on a 210 I believe are the same as the 202 which means they will adjust the camber/castor + or - 3mm, what that equates to in degrees and minutes I don,t know but not a lot.
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Old 03-11-2010, 10:05 AM   #6
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I took the car to wheels in motion, it took 3 visits to get it right as the steering was off centre. Im still not convinced its perfect, as the steering is quite erratic over uneven surfaces. Might be the combination of lowered suspension and 245 tyres, after WIM did the correction the tyres nolonger rub.
Their equipment is very high end, and they take the time to explain what they are doing and some of the theory behind it.
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:33 AM   #7
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when lowering a Benz, are #4 nib pads in front and #3 nib pads in the rear the best setup?

I'm going to fit Billy B8 SPRINTS on my car and 35mm springs from Vogtland.
springpads aren't expensive but I want to buy the correct ones and having to use my car as a guinea pig to test it for what is the best setup I don't want to do that!
I know I have #2 =9mm stockpads on my c43.

using #1=5mm in front and #2=9mm in rear when lowering the car it it going to cause any tirerub?
anybody tested all pads on their car when lowering it?
Please chime in.
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:47 AM   #8
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What are 'repair bolts'?
Is the adjustment in the wishbones, the mounts, or the 'repair bolts'?

More info please!!!

Any pictures of 'repair bolts'?
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:05 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by andy27168 View Post
The repair bolts on a 210 I believe are the same as the 202 which means they will adjust the camber/castor + or - 3mm, what that equates to in degrees and minutes I don,t know but not a lot.
That could be a lot or a little depending on the arc radius they adjust.

But I still do not understand how they insert in "one of three positions" - somebody please explain?

I imagine the 245/40 have worn off their corners to fit inside the arches
either that or they have somehow managed to tuck them in. The 245 are not only wider than 235 but taller too.

I've met WIM and their toys are cool. Mine is still a little out of kilter since it took a thump on the wheel. We've got it handling like a cat on rails now but the numbers are a wee bit off spec. I need a mechanic who understands MB front sus, I should not be the one telling the repair monkeys what to do.
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Old 03-11-2010, 07:13 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bellow View Post
What are 'repair bolts'?
Is the adjustment in the wishbones, the mounts, or the 'repair bolts'?

More info please!!!

Any pictures of 'repair bolts'?
I want more info too...

The bolts go in the cylindrical things on the end of the lower arm wishbone pic at top of thread.

I do not understand how they insert in different positions, I thought they was rotated.

BTW I have no idea what #nib pads are all about, perhaps something got lost in translation? Is this related to adjusting front geometry on 210?
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:11 PM   #11
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I guess there is little tech knowledge on this subject within the fold, hence little response for you.

I have the previous generation 124 chassis, and it is all there in situ from factory.

two adjustment bolts each side of car.

the front wishbone bolts adjust camber and the rear wishbone bolts adjust castor.

rear suspension also has the adjuster built-in for toe.
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Old 03-11-2010, 08:20 PM   #12
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When I get 5 mins I will try and explain how they (bolts) work.
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Old 03-11-2010, 11:11 PM   #13
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The camber and castor adjustment bolts are much different on a 124 compared to the 202,210,170,203,209,220,221 etc etc.

The 124's (and others of the samer era) have an eccentric adjustment bolts that are a doddle to adjust. Just slacken the nut and turn the bolt head to adjust.

The others have fixed adjustment bolts that are a replacement and are not fitted from factory.

These bolts have two adjustment positions and will adjust 10' (mins) give or take to increase or decrease camber or castor. They are crap. The bolts have a cut out down them that allow the arm to move in or out depending on what adjustment is needed. There is a cutout on the subframe to allow the arm to move. 9/10 these bolts and associated washers are fitted badly. When they are fitted badly it often damages the subframe.

Hope this makes things a bit clearer.
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Old 09-11-2010, 03:21 AM   #14
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I've had a look at mine.

Any idea how you get at them?
- they seem almost completely inaccessible except by hanging upside down like a bat down the side of the engine..
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Old 09-11-2010, 10:20 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jefrs View Post
I've had a look at mine.

Any idea how you get at them?
- they seem almost completely inaccessible except by hanging upside down like a bat down the side of the engine..
The car needs to be on a ramp..... They can be a bugger to fit even on a ramp.
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