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Old 18-11-2010, 02:08 PM   #1
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Waxing/oiling reclaimed pine doors...what shall I use?

Hi Guys,

I've got doors that currently look like this (unfinished reclaimed victorian pine doors):


and I'd like them to have this sort of colour to the finish:


Firstly, what product should i be using (especially given dirt from people contantly touching the doors, and mosture - in terms of the door in the bathroom) - oil, tinted wax..I'm thinking maybe not varnish or stain.
Secondly - any brands or colours?
Thanks all.
R
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Old 18-11-2010, 02:22 PM   #2
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I'd use danish oil of some sort.
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Old 18-11-2010, 02:23 PM   #3
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Have these doors been dipped? If they have make sure that all the caustic is out of them or it will cause you a problem. You will probably need to use a sanding sealer at first - if you have any antique dealers near you that deal in pine (specialists) they are always a good font of free knowledge ( i should know - i am one!). In my opinion whatever you use dont use Briwax.
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Old 18-11-2010, 03:16 PM   #4
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Quote:
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Have these doors been dipped? If they have make sure that all the caustic is out of them or it will cause you a problem. You will probably need to use a sanding sealer at first - if you have any antique dealers near you that deal in pine (specialists) they are always a good font of free knowledge ( i should know - i am one!). In my opinion whatever you use dont use Briwax.
Thanks your opinions would be greatly received

The doors were treated as follows, however, i do not know how long ago all this happened. Here's where I bought them from and their technique.

Paint Stripping Service ( North ) London - Middlesex, Essex

I'm not sure i would want sanding sealer as that would give a lacquered/varnished finish. I'd like more so the real wood feel, but in a colour as shown in the picture.

Last edited by rossyl; 18-11-2010 at 03:19 PM.
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Old 18-11-2010, 03:23 PM   #5
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I would find out how much they would charge to finish the doors to your spec.It may well be cheaper than you think.
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Old 18-11-2010, 03:54 PM   #6
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Speak to a french polisher then way up your time + effort vs what he would charge. At the end of the day he has to cover his callout but the economies of scale mean that a few doors will bring the cost per door right down.
Get a recommendation though, we needed one after the front door was damaged during a delivery, I chased two away from here who talked out of their ****, then a guy was recommended by the damaging company (John Lewis's I think).
Brilliant, although I cannot find his number
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Old 18-11-2010, 03:57 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seven View Post
Have these doors been dipped? If they have make sure that all the caustic is out of them or it will cause you a problem. You will probably need to use a sanding sealer at first - if you have any antique dealers near you that deal in pine (specialists) they are always a good font of free knowledge ( i should know - i am one!). In my opinion whatever you use dont use Briwax.
Funny, I was going to mention Briwax. Why not?
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Old 18-11-2010, 04:18 PM   #8
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Interestingly the Briwax on our restored fireplace still looks as good as the day I did it (about 8 years ago)
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Old 18-11-2010, 05:09 PM   #9
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I am not keen on the amount of toluene they use in it-but then i have not used it for quite a while so the formula may have changed.I am more used to using waxes on 'brown' furniture and briwax gives far too much of a shine imo.
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Old 18-11-2010, 05:10 PM   #10
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But then 'one mans meat'.....
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Old 18-11-2010, 06:28 PM   #11
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Our local "dipping" place used to sell 2 bi-products of the stripping process called "gunk" and "water stain"
Both were very thin & watery but tinted the bare wood to give an "aged" appearance. Last time I bought from them I only used one of their products which was the water stain IIRC.
After that has dried I then painted on wax which I think was Mayfields or Maylands or something similar, slightly tinted, I think it was called stripped pine. Working on about half a door at a time, apply the wax then buff up with a rag.
Wax gives a nice tactile finish, but is not waterproof.
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Old 18-11-2010, 08:15 PM   #12
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Sadolin is very good
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Old 18-11-2010, 08:17 PM   #13
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..and so is a Sikkens, pricey but very good coverage and durability
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Old 18-11-2010, 09:49 PM   #14
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I remember my mum using strong tea to stain stripped floor boards then used a matt varnish to seal them!

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Old 18-11-2010, 10:13 PM   #15
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I'd Briwax them and use a bit of cellulose thinners on the rag as I apply it.
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