W124 Airbag Steering Wheel Fitment

[BoyracerAU]

Hi All,

With the help of SS201 - thank you Steve! - I am now in possession of a wonderfully supple leather airbag steering wheel to replace the original which has succumbed to the good old Aussie sun.

I've been searching the forum to discover how to remove & replace it and come up with the following:

* Disconnect battery and wait half an hour.

* Use Torx driver to undo two bolts from the back of the wheel to remove the airbag component, which I presume includes the horn pad. I haven't seen any mention of electrical connectors, so I assume these must be bleeding obvious?

* Use a socket to undo one single nut and the wheel should now come away. Does anybody know what size socket I need?

Hopefully those in the know will chime in and tell me if the above is right or wrong. I wouldn't want any nasty surprises like an airbag going off while I'm at it!

[cornershop]

Double post

[cornershop]

Michael

Try here for some text / pics Rik Johnsons Mercedes 500E

[BoyracerAU]

Nice page! Thanks for that. It'll be tonight's bedtime reading.

[grober]

The steering bolt is a peculiar one it's an "allen key type" hex socket flat head machine screw You will need a VERY GOOD QUALITY 10mm ?? allen key type hex bit that will fit to a socket set breaker bar [ with possibly an extension] tightening torque is 80 Nm !!! you will need help to hold/lock the steering wheel- don't rely on having the steering lock engaged for this something will break!! Use adequate leverage!! otherwise a broken windscreen is a distinct possibility

[SilverSaloon]

i'd second a good quality hex socket is essential. if it doesnt undo 1st try and you appear to start chewing up the nut, then give up and take it to a local garage to break the tightness using a windy gun as if it chews it up, its going to be a nightmare to get off.

worth replacing with a new nut too for re-assembly IMO

[BoyracerAU]

Thanks for those tips guys. I don't think my tool kit runs as far as allen key to that size or strength so all things considered I think I'll be better off popping in at my local indie's tomorrow.

[2phast]

Originally Posted by SilverSaloon

i'd second a good quality hex socket is essential. if it doesnt undo 1st try and you appear to start chewing up the nut, then give up and take it to a local garage to break the tightness using a windy gun as if it chews it up, its going to be a nightmare to get off.

worth replacing with a new nut too for re-assembly IMO

Leverage is the key. I have a 3 foot tube of aluminum that slips over the end of my socket wrench. Cost me something to the tune of 4 dollars, good investment and much cheaper than paying a shop to get it off.

[BoyracerAU]

My indie used a battery powered rattle gun. It looked so easy and took no time at all. I think I need a battery powered rattle gun!

[NW_Merc]

Originally Posted by BoyracerAU

My indie used a battery powered rattle gun. It looked so easy and took no time at all. I think I need a battery powered rattle gun!

Buy a clarke one from amazon, only about 60 quid with delivery.

[BoyracerAU]

Thanks for the tip. I'll go have a look now!

[BillyW124]

You got away with using the gun mate.

i had a disaster when i tried this. The bolt sheared and at that point was so distraught i was like WTF, now what!

The remedy was to weld, yes weld another bolt on to it and then undo. Tears of joy when i felt/heard that click and first movement of a tight bolt!

As 2phast has mentioned leverage is key. I now use a good breaker bar and bit. To get me more levearge to be on the safe side, I attach a pole the slides onto the bar.

its amazing then how easy it is to get that nut off.

[NW_Merc]

Though I have an electric impact wrench, personally I would never use it to remove the steering wheel nut. If its not been removed since the car was new then it will be stuck fast and using the gun on it will undoubtedly result in it sheering. I have used the breaker bar method and think its safer in the long run.