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Old 08-01-2010, 12:13 AM   #31
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One more question about buttons, when i press the button in the centre for directing the air-flow a little red light comes on whats this one ?? Thanks..!
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Old 08-01-2010, 12:20 AM   #32
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One more question about buttons, when i press the button in the centre for directing the air-flow a little red light comes on whats this one ?? Thanks..!

What year is your van ?? And engine size ??
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:12 AM   #33
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In v cold snaps using the re-circulation button on the air-con will warm your cabin up faster as it is re-circulating already warmer air continually , also starting the engine 10 minutes before setting off really helps too .
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:18 AM   #34
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Hi ya, The switch with the wavy lines (middle section) is indeed the heater booster, it is like a seperate motor which is under the van almost right under the passenger seat.
It sounds like your van has been retro fitted with springs and shocks which is quite a common mod as the air suspension can be very problomatic and costly to keep maintained. Beware the thing that looks like a compressor could be the booster heater.
The "W" is winter mode for the auto box, means it pulls away in second and changes up sooner (less revs)
ASR, traction control, simple as that
The reason for the rear light switch is to make life easier, one way allows the light to be opperated by opening the doors and the other way is an overide? don't know why you would want to this when you can do it on the light unit its self.

Cheers Martin
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Old 08-01-2010, 08:22 AM   #35
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And if you press the centre of the centre dial the red light is for recirculate, you need to get a handbook as you can do all sorts of clever things with the heating system on a fully loaded V class.

P.S my van is a "W" plate 108CDI so is basically the same as yours

Martin

Last edited by walsi; 08-01-2010 at 08:24 AM.
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:48 PM   #36
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Thanks for the information, that clears up a few things for me. My lights in the back ( 4 ) all come on which ever way i put the dash switch. They don't come on when i open the back doors either. The dash switch is very handy though for me because i can light up the whole back to let the kids get out.

Getting back to the point though, i think my stat is wide open, the temp gauge barely moves unless i am parked, then i have to open windows because the cab fills up with fumes from the leaky injector (a work in progress ) Plus the last owner busted the back of the centre dial. I had a T5 Volvo with seats hot enough to burn you it was great, I also had a nissan patrol where the heat was really really bad. The booster heater is like a small burner similar to central heating at home. Burning nozzle etc. Just trying to get a picture now and explanation.
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:02 PM   #37
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Hi ya, yes it consists of a diesel boiler with a glow plug in the centre which is wrapped by a copper jacket which the water is pumped around by the water pump. It works on the same principal as a night heater in a lorry except it heats water and not air. Diesel is injected into it by a small metering device and is ignited by the glow plug and there is a short exhaust on it with a silencer which has dropped off on mine so it sounds like i have a jet turbine running under the van from 50' away. Really is a straight forward way of providing heat and helping the engine warm up. They really struggle to get up to temp in the cold unless you have a booster or and block part of the rad off.

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Old 08-01-2010, 11:12 PM   #38
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This is what the burner looks like, it shows right where you said it was . That must be what i was looking at.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Heater booster1.jpg (90.8 KB, 87 views)
File Type: jpg Heater booster2.jpg (199.0 KB, 87 views)
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:14 PM   #39
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Where did you get the diagram from?? thats the puppy, its under the van under the passenger seat area just behind the chassis

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Old 08-01-2010, 11:16 PM   #40
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Dont bother answering that, i can see its from that Wis program that i could never get to work

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Old 08-01-2010, 11:22 PM   #41
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Yes it's WIS a bit tricky at first to run and use but i am getting the hang of it now. Search all kinds of models and stuff. It needs the loopback adapter to work, and i have to disable the normal internet connection and i have to enable the adapter and wait till it says 'limited connection' otherwise it is all german blah blah blah no go away Ja
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:30 PM   #42
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Cool, mine got used as frisbies a couple of years ago to save my sanity
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Old 08-01-2010, 11:48 PM   #43
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If i can get any pages for you just ask but it will be on the slow train
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:44 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by corned View Post
I have just been out to mine to conduct a little 'experiment'.

The car has not been started for 2 days or so. My glowplugs are OK so I started normally and left the aircon on AUTO, but set the temp on both sides to max. Within 30 seconds, the air coming out of the vents had some measure of heat in it. In 5 minutes, the warmth in the cabin had melted the snow on the windscreen, without me setting the aircon to demist.
Hmm..I started my car this morning. It hasn't been run for some time (weeks), but it started OK.

The heater booster is set to auto on the dash computer and I left the heater controls on auto, temps to max, with the a/c on (light off) and it was a full 5mins before any kind of heat was detectable at the screen vents, even running the engine on fast idle.

I would love to understand exactly what the heater booster is, and how it works (on the heater air or on the car's water system?). All the handbook says is how to set it and that it'll work if the ambient temp is low and the engine is cold.

Last edited by Rory; 09-01-2010 at 01:49 PM.
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:56 PM   #45
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Hi ya Rory, if you look at the diagram above that Dannyboughtit has kindly posted you can see the basic layout of the booster heater, this is plumbed into the water system of the car and heats the block and the heater matrix untill the thermostat opens and then it helps warm all of the coolant. The water is circulated via the cars water pump or if it is an auxilary heater that runs without the engine circulation is via an electric pump but they both do the same thing.
You say it took ages for any heat to come, could it be that there is a set way for the heater to be set to get just heat as someone mentioned somewhere on here that they had a similar problem but they altered the way they had set the heater controls and they had heat almost straight away. Just a guess

Martin
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