W124 280TE Temperature

javaid · 29-06-2009, 02:47 PM

Hi,

With the recent hot weather I noticed that my car was getting hot when I was stationary in traffic. At times the needle would go between the 120 and the level below. If I turned on the heater the temperature would start to drop. I changed the thermostat to see if that would make a difference.

What should the temperature be and should it get that high?
Where should the needle be point when its running normal?

All help appreciated.

blondebier · 29-06-2009, 03:16 PM

I think it should be somewhere around 87'C - but when the weather is really hot it will naturally get higher than this.

As long as the temperature drops when you get out of the traffic I'm sure it's fine.

If you did want to replace it, they are quite a cheap part from MB. I think I paid around £13 from MB when a did the one on my W124 a few months back.

javaid · 29-06-2009, 05:08 PM

How long do I wait, at what point should I get concerned if the temp keeps rising.
I have already replaced the thermostat and the car is running hotter than it used to, which I assume is better. The needle is between 80 and the next mark up.

So what is the correct temperture ( where should the needle be pointing) ? Should it be between the 80 and the next line for normal runing? ( the pic below if not from my car but the temp guage is the same )

What if it goes between the 120 and the line before it? Is that too hot ?
At what point should I be concerned?

Regards

wemorgan · 29-06-2009, 05:14 PM

If this is of any help here's some info on coolant boiling temps:

HowStuffWorks "How Car Cooling Systems Work"

ie. your coolant is likely to boil at ~110 celcius

grober · 29-06-2009, 05:22 PM

You might want to test your viscous coupled engine fan to see if the coupling is working OK. Do the carrot test. Warm up the car and then let it idle. Monitor the temperature gauge--- as the temperature rises the viscous fan should start to rotate at the engine speed as the clutch "bites" and you should hear a distinct increase in fan noise. A thin carrot is used as an "expendable" fan tester. The fan always turns when the engine is running but when cold its essentially freewheeling and can easily be stopped with a small obstruction--the carrot
Once the clutch engages the carrot will be easily sliced by the "driven" fan.
WATCH YOUR FINGERS IN THE FAN AND POLY V BELT!!

things get more complicated if you have air conditioning since there are one or 2 extra electrical fans at the front of the radiator which can also effect cooling---- initially just check they are running when the engine is hot and the air conditioning is on.

javaid · 29-06-2009, 05:30 PM

The carrot test sounds good. I know the fan is running all the time and I have not heard fan 'kicking' in when it get hot.
Cheers.

javaid · 29-06-2009, 05:39 PM

I suppose if I add more anti freeze that should help and also check that the presssure value is working on the water bottle.
Thanks

andy_k · 29-06-2009, 06:42 PM

if you've got aircon, you'll hear the additional fans kick in - they are quite loud

If you don't have aircon then make sure the coolant mix is correct, the thermostat it OK (I think they are supposed to open somewhere in the nineties but it should say so on the stat itself) and that the viscous fan is working.

Our E320 used to get quite warm in the summer and once or twice we thought it was going to overheat but it never did - I seem to remember that 105 was the temperature the fans kick in (I may be wrong on that one so make sure you check it)

Zulu-Boy · 29-06-2009, 11:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javaid

Hi,

With the recent hot weather I noticed that my car was getting hot when I was stationary in traffic. At times the needle would go between the 120 and the level below. If I turned on the heater the temperature would start to drop. I changed the thermostat to see if that would make a difference.

What should the temperature be and should it get that high?
Where should the needle be point when its running normal?

All help appreciated.

You may want to consider checking the thermo-switch on the radiator. The fault you described sounds familiar. I had the same prob on a W123 afew years back - turned out to be the thermoswitch. About £18 but you'll need to lose antifreezewhilst putting it on

grumpyartman · 30-06-2009, 11:52 PM

The viscous is easy to check, as described above and its my bet thats your cure.
Online I got one for £30 delivered a couple of weeks back, correct spanner about £6, and fashion something to hold pulley dependant on your model and remember its loosened by turning to the RIGHT. The fan shroud wouldnt come out on my 93 e220 but leaving it hanging loose was easy to workaround until the fan was released.

ten minute job if all goes well

29-06-2009, 02:47 PM	#1
javaid Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Live-Cheshire Work-B'Ham Car: 280 TE (124K) & 300 TE (178K) & 300 TE (200K) & E300 D (250k) Posts: 32	W124 280TE Temperature Hi, With the recent hot weather I noticed that my car was getting hot when I was stationary in traffic. At times the needle would go between the 120 and the level below. If I turned on the heater the temperature would start to drop. I changed the thermostat to see if that would make a difference. What should the temperature be and should it get that high? Where should the needle be point when its running normal? All help appreciated.

29-06-2009, 05:08 PM	#3
javaid Member Threadstarter Join Date: May 2008 Location: Live-Cheshire Work-B'Ham Car: 280 TE (124K) & 300 TE (178K) & 300 TE (200K) & E300 D (250k) Posts: 32	W124 Temperature Issue How long do I wait, at what point should I get concerned if the temp keeps rising. I have already replaced the thermostat and the car is running hotter than it used to, which I assume is better. The needle is between 80 and the next mark up. So what is the correct temperture ( where should the needle be pointing) ? Should it be between the 80 and the next line for normal runing? ( the pic below if not from my car but the temp guage is the same ) What if it goes between the 120 and the line before it? Is that too hot ? At what point should I be concerned? Regards

29-06-2009, 05:22 PM	#5
grober Hardcore MB Enthusiast Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Perth SCOTLAND Car: E220 COUPE Posts: 8,968	You might want to test your viscous coupled engine fan to see if the coupling is working OK. Do the carrot test. Warm up the car and then let it idle. Monitor the temperature gauge--- as the temperature rises the viscous fan should start to rotate at the engine speed as the clutch "bites" and you should hear a distinct increase in fan noise. A thin carrot is used as an "expendable" fan tester. The fan always turns when the engine is running but when cold its essentially freewheeling and can easily be stopped with a small obstruction--the carrot Once the clutch engages the carrot will be easily sliced by the "driven" fan. WATCH YOUR FINGERS IN THE FAN AND POLY V BELT!! things get more complicated if you have air conditioning since there are one or 2 extra electrical fans at the front of the radiator which can also effect cooling---- initially just check they are running when the engine is hot and the air conditioning is on. __________________ Cheers Graeme E220 COUPE auto 96 Last of the Ol 124s Last edited by grober; 29-06-2009 at 05:25 PM.

29-06-2009, 05:30 PM	#6
javaid Member Threadstarter Join Date: May 2008 Location: Live-Cheshire Work-B'Ham Car: 280 TE (124K) & 300 TE (178K) & 300 TE (200K) & E300 D (250k) Posts: 32	W124 Temperature Issues The carrot test sounds good. I know the fan is running all the time and I have not heard fan 'kicking' in when it get hot. Cheers.

29-06-2009, 05:39 PM	#7
javaid Member Threadstarter Join Date: May 2008 Location: Live-Cheshire Work-B'Ham Car: 280 TE (124K) & 300 TE (178K) & 300 TE (200K) & E300 D (250k) Posts: 32	W124 Temperature issues I suppose if I add more anti freeze that should help and also check that the presssure value is working on the water bottle. Thanks

29-06-2009, 03:16 PM	#2
blondebier Hardcore MB Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 506	I think it should be somewhere around 87'C - but when the weather is really hot it will naturally get higher than this. As long as the temperature drops when you get out of the traffic I'm sure it's fine. If you did want to replace it, they are quite a cheap part from MB. I think I paid around £13 from MB when a did the one on my W124 a few months back.

29-06-2009, 05:14 PM	#4
wemorgan Hardcore MB Enthusiast Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: Warwickshire Car: Audi A2, Lotus Elise Posts: 3,992	If this is of any help here's some info on coolant boiling temps: HowStuffWorks "How Car Cooling Systems Work" ie. your coolant is likely to boil at ~110 celcius

29-06-2009, 06:42 PM	#8
andy_k Hardcore MB Enthusiast Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Bexhill, East sussex Car: Alfa GTV 3.0 Posts: 5,867	if you've got aircon, you'll hear the additional fans kick in - they are quite loud If you don't have aircon then make sure the coolant mix is correct, the thermostat it OK (I think they are supposed to open somewhere in the nineties but it should say so on the stat itself) and that the viscous fan is working. Our E320 used to get quite warm in the summer and once or twice we thought it was going to overheat but it never did - I seem to remember that 105 was the temperature the fans kick in (I may be wrong on that one so make sure you check it) __________________ <insert smart sounding witty comment here>

30-06-2009, 11:52 PM	#10
grumpyartman New Member Join Date: May 2009 Car: E220 (1993 S124) Posts: 19	The viscous is easy to check, as described above and its my bet thats your cure. Online I got one for £30 delivered a couple of weeks back, correct spanner about £6, and fashion something to hold pulley dependant on your model and remember its loosened by turning to the RIGHT. The fan shroud wouldnt come out on my 93 e220 but leaving it hanging loose was easy to workaround until the fan was released. ten minute job if all goes well

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