[MOD] W203 12V in boot (wih pics!)

[columb]

Hi!

As many of you know, I was quoted £200+ by main stealer foe extra 12v socket in boot of my car. Bit excessive if you ask me... For £50-60 I wouldn't even bother checking what needs to be done but £200 it's a different story.

So, today I went to my mate and here it what we have done
It took us around 40 min-60 min but no rush





















Cheers
Chris

[columb]

Sooo... Is it OK? Will this work OK and NOT make any damage to the car? Any advice? Any comments?
Not much use for this, though. But I'm going to connect cool box AND have it running for 4-6h while no one in the car. Is it good idea? Had it running for 3 hours Will battery last for 4-6h? Is that OK?

Many thanks!

Cheers
Chris

[richard]

Sorry, but i'm going to say EEEK.

You can just buy a fuse holder that clips into the spare fuse locations at the bottom...
A003 545 13 01 and the contact that goes in it: A004 545 52 26

That part number above is the black one, so will fit in the one without a coloured dot (or you can just cut off the plastic key so it will fit in any)

And if you used a crimp on ring connector, you could have connected it to the proper grounding point (which you can see in your photo to right of SAM/fusebox)

(ps, same advice for powering stuff in front of car, but use fusebox at end of instrument panel under the end-cover)

There is also actually a 'accessory' output on the back of the SAM which (when a fuse is added) is used to wire in things like door sills, so you can buy the accessory loom and use that - I dont know the part number for that but dealer will if you tell him its for illuminated door sills. I dont know the max. current for that setup though.


Also, if you're being fancy you can plug in a relay, a fuse and connect to the back of the SAM and you can probably even get ignition switched power. I'd have to work out from the circuit diagrams which relay is which & which fuse is needed though.

Or if you want to do something equally freaky, you could add the roller blind switch at the front of the car, and add/use the roller blind relay to operate something when the switch is operated (you can have 2 things, one operated on up and one operated on down) (aha, now for the "Get back in the left hand lane you ...." light up sign).

Richard

[Shude]

Originally Posted by richard

Sorry, but i'm going to say EEEK.

I would have been tempted to use some of these parts:

A2025408834 : ELECTRIC CABLE : EUR 33.22
A0015458728 : PIN BUSHING HOUSING : EUR 1.22
A0075458426 : PIN BUSHING : EUR .78 (X2)
A0085458226 : PLUG SOCKET : EUR 1.02
A2108200951 : FITTING MOLD : EUR 9.07

With the exception of the cable it's a really cheap oem mod. The cable could be replaced with some other wiring from B&Q or somewhere for pennies.

Here is how it looks in it's natural habitat:

[columb]

Guys,

Thanks for advice! Yes, I will go official route soon but the problem was that I need this socket for next weekend and I don't have time to wait for the parts...
But definitely I will do "official" 12V socket!

Cheers
Chris

[columb]

Originally Posted by richard

Sorry, but i'm going to say EEEK.

Yep, looks dodgy. Agreed. No time though to wait for parts!

Originally Posted by richard

You can just buy a fuse holder that clips into the spare fuse locations at the bottom...
A003 545 13 01 and the contact that goes in it: A004 545 52 26

That part number above is the black one, so will fit in the one without a coloured dot (or you can just cut off the plastic key so it will fit in any)

That sounds interesting! Will consider this as well.

Originally Posted by richard

And if you used a crimp on ring connector, you could have connected it to the proper grounding point (which you can see in your photo to right of SAM/fusebox)

I didn't want to connect to many parts to that grounding point in first place. Also, the loop which I made was too small

Originally Posted by richard

Also, if you're being fancy you can plug in a relay, a fuse and connect to the back of the SAM and you can probably even get ignition switched power. I'd have to work out from the circuit diagrams which relay is which & which fuse is needed though.

Thanks, it needs to be powered all the time.

Thank you for advice and your time!
Cheers
Chris

[Smatt]

I agree, I would have used oem bits like the accessory cable or MB crimps which can be used to neatly plug the cables directly into the rear of the fuseholders.
But, well done for having a go, especially when you needed a quick fix. As such, this is quite a neat effort, imo

Nice links from Shude to do it 'proper-like'

I fitted illum/sills in our B class with all oem bits from dealer & it integrated fairly flawlessly. I think someone inspecting it would just think it was factory fit as there is no blu-tak or cellotape to be seen! Doing the full works is a bit more involved & costs a little more, but much neater & more satisfying

[columb]

Originally Posted by Shude

I would have been tempted to use some of these parts:

A2025408834 : ELECTRIC CABLE : EUR 33.22
A0015458728 : PIN BUSHING HOUSING : EUR 1.22
A0075458426 : PIN BUSHING : EUR .78 (X2)
A0085458226 : PLUG SOCKET : EUR 1.02
A2108200951 : FITTING MOLD : EUR 9.07

With the exception of the cable it's a really cheap oem mod. The cable could be replaced with some other wiring from B&Q or somewhere for pennies.

Here is how it looks in it's natural habitat:

Where did you order those parts from?

Cheers
Chris

[renault12ts]

You could try a breakers yard.

[Shude]

Originally Posted by columb

Where did you order those parts from?

I didn't order the parts, those are the factory parts for an S202. The parts could be ordered from any MB parts counter.

[columb]

Any idea for how long I can run cool box and NOT killing battery?
I need to leave a car for around 6h with cool box running... Yeah, I've done it in the past for 3h!
Guys, I know it's stupid but if there is no choice then there is NO CHOICE.

Cheers
Chris

[Smatt]

depends on battery capacity & coolbox current drain, which will in turn depend on the ambient temp.
Best thing is to do some trials at home overnight, so that you are easily able to recharge battery with charger before any significant damage done.
When you are away, you may also need a good long run to recharge the battery, particularly if you are planning to put the coolbox on again...

[stevesey]

Originally Posted by Shude

I would have been tempted to use some of these parts:

A2025408834 : ELECTRIC CABLE : EUR 33.22
A0015458728 : PIN BUSHING HOUSING : EUR 1.22
A0075458426 : PIN BUSHING : EUR .78 (X2)
A0085458226 : PLUG SOCKET : EUR 1.02
A2108200951 : FITTING MOLD : EUR 9.07

With the exception of the cable it's a really cheap oem mod. The cable could be replaced with some other wiring from B&Q or somewhere for pennies.

Here is how it looks in it's natural habitat:

Looks the part - if I do my own wiring which of those is the actual socket and flap visible in the photos?

These?
A0085458226 : PLUG SOCKET : EUR 1.02
A2108200951 : FITTING MOLD : EUR 9.07

[Alps]

Columb, defo would follow the advice given above, no offence but that is the most botched wiring i have seen in a long time! just make sure its all insulated well if its temporary, last thing you want is your fuse damaging the fuse box.

[Dec]

This is only guess work as I haven’t had any experience of a 12v fridge.

If every thing in the fridge is cold to start with then the fridge will run for about 1 minute every 15 minutes,
That’s 4 minutes per hour x 6 hours = 24 minutes that the fridge is consuming power, the rest of the time its not consuming any power, same as a domestic.

It all depends what the rated power consumption of the unit is? This information should be in the user manual or on a label on the unit and state the power in amps.

The fewer times that you open the fridge door then the less power it will consume.
Remember this is just guesswork. If your battery is in poor condition then it will run the battery down very rapidly.

Dec