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Old 11-11-2008, 01:40 PM   #1
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W124 Central Locking Electrical help

My central locking does not work from either the fob or the key on the drivers side, I have completly replaced the wire from the the actuator through the door to the old connections, still not working..

The actuator has three wires does any one know what voltage it takes and how to test the wire (ie which wire combination to + and -)

I have noticed a 3rd party relay box in amongst the wiring in the floor, I guessing that may be faulty, if it is does that mean I have to replace the whole alarm with one that has central locking feature.
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Old 14-11-2008, 11:43 AM   #2
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bump, must be someone who can give me an idea pls.
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Old 14-11-2008, 11:59 AM   #3
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bump, must be someone who can give me an idea pls.
cant you test with a multimetre? I fitted a new central locking and keyfob quite easily to my 124 - sounds like the central locking pump may be knackered? have you checked all vacuum pipes are connected to it, fuses and if worse fails you could pass 12v directly to it to see if it locks/unlocks the car.

there is a how-to here that may point you in the right direction where to check wires etc:

http://www.mercedesshop.com/Wikka/W124Keyless

pump cheap on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MERCEDES-W124-...1%7C240%3A1318
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Last edited by SilverSaloon; 14-11-2008 at 12:41 PM.
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Old 14-11-2008, 03:18 PM   #4
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cheers, pump is ok because if lock/unlock door from pasenger side all doors lock/unlock has to be relay wiring issue from drivers side I guess
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Old 14-11-2008, 03:25 PM   #5
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cheers, pump is ok because if lock/unlock door from pasenger side all doors lock/unlock has to be relay wiring issue from drivers side I guess
may have something to do with the connections to this box:



??

this is the convience module that (i think) controls all the input from each door, window, sunroof etc.
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Old 28-11-2008, 08:35 PM   #6
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Been a while on this one, had other things to do, but got the correct test procedure from WIS and traced the fault down to the pump. Which SilverSaloon said with first response, It turns out that one of the connectors on the pump is dodgy, the one that received the signal from the drivers door...

replaced pump (thanks I.Walker) all works OK... gonna get my electrician friend to see if can fix old pump (spare)

but the door actuator was also faulty (replaced), and I have replaced the wiring so don't need to worry about that going any time soon..

slowly but surley I am getting through all the little niggles...

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If all else fails use a bigger hammer
1992' Honda Prelude 2.3i 4ws 4th Gen, Frost White
1992' Jaguar XJ6 3.2l - Gone
1988' 300e Grey,Air-Con/Cruise Control/Brabus Bilstien Shocks & H&R Lowering Sport Springs (F190) - Gone but not forgotton
1989' 190e 2.0i Cicley (Cosworth Body Kit) (Leo) - Purplegoddess's
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Old 28-11-2008, 09:06 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by jpskiller View Post
Been a while on this one, had other things to do, but got the correct test procedure from WIS and traced the fault down to the pump. Which SilverSaloon said with first response, It turns out that one of the connectors on the pump is dodgy, the one that received the signal from the drivers door...

replaced pump (thanks I.Walker) all works OK... gonna get my electrician friend to see if can fix old pump (spare)

but the door actuator was also faulty (replaced), and I have replaced the wiring so don't need to worry about that going any time soon..

slowly but surley I am getting through all the little niggles...
So when does PurpleGoddess leave then?

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Old 28-11-2008, 09:12 PM   #8
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I think your gonna be in big trouble at next meet, and anyway I havent finished (started) sorting out the bits on the 190 yet
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Old 29-11-2008, 12:11 PM   #9
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So when does PurpleGoddess leave then?

thats all im going to say for the moment
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